The rap against tile, especially in kitchens, is that whatever you drop on it breaks. Tile itself can also break due to gaps in grout that let in water, a failing adhesive bond, a plywood base that's not strong enough, or a popped nail head in the subflooring. Whatever the cause, there are four basic steps to making a repair that lasts.
Removing. Tiles attach to the subfloor or countertop with adhesive, but also bond to each other with grout. If you hit or pry against one, the force transfers through the tile and the floor and disrupts tiles nearby. To prevent further damage, use a small masonry bit to drill a few holes along the crack. That breaks the tile more completely and expose edges that are easier to lift or pry up. Another approach is to use a grout saw (there are hand and power models) to break connections with adjacent tiles. But that's tedious work. Once you get a piece or two of tile removed the grout edging often pops loose with little effort.
Clearing. The next step is creating a flat, clean, stable, dry surface for a replacement tile — usually the tough part of the job. Ideally, the old tile will come up with most of the ribbed adhesive attached. Then light scraping with a sharp chisel should be enough to prep the plywood subfloor. If most of the adhesive stays with the floor scrape at an angle to shave the adhesive without digging into the wood. If the area is wet, let it dry before attempting repairs. If it remains spongy, even dry, long-term leaks have probably delaminated the layers of plywood. No adhesive can keep a replacement tile stable over a spongy floor. Those sections have to be replaced, even if it means removing some tiles that aren't broken. The scenario is more positive at damaged tiles on countertops — at least most of them. Instead of plywood, you should uncover a layer of cement board. Its fiber-reinforced masonry surface resists water damage and should withstand scraping without requiring more extensive repairs.
Resetting. It's difficult to replicate the steps of a standard installation on a small repair. There's no room for sweeping strokes with a notched trowel. Make do by setting an adhesive bed about 3/8-inch thick and scoring it with nail or screwdriver. Nestle the replacement in position, and use a straightedge that spans adjacent tiles to level it. If you have trouble centering one or more tiles, use spacers — small plastic pieces that maintain separation for the grout. They aren't needed on tiles that have nubs along their edges and automatically create a equally spaced seams. You'll see some adhesive in the seams, but don't let it bulge up. If it fills the seams you won't have the depth needed to install the proper amount of grout.
Re-grouting. Once the adhesive sets (overnight with most mixes), you can add grout to the seams and finish the repair. Press it firmly into place by sweeping a float or rubber squeegee back and forth at an angle across the seams. Repeated passes and firm pressure compress the mix. After the grout hardens, start wiping away the dried grout haze on the surface. Use a large sponge with clean water, wringing and wiping frequently, then change the water and do it all again. You may need three cleaning sessions to finish. You can take the time with a roller applicator or small brush to coat the grout lines with liquid silicone. This reduces future maintenance on leaks and mold by sealing the grout.
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